If you are arriving
after dark it might be best to overnight in a hotel near the airport
and head into Chennai in the morning.
Two OK hotels close
to the airport are Hotel Mars (Tel: 840 2586) and Hotel Mount Heera
(Tel: 234 9563 Fax: 233 1236). Both will send a bus around to the airport
to pick you and the bike up free of charge. Rooms cost about Rs.400
(USD $10).
The other option
is to skip Chennai altogether (If Mr Pumpy had his time again, this
is what he'd do!) and head straight down to Mahabalipuram, about 4 hours
cycling away (see Mahabalipuram below).
The
route in detail: Chennai
is a big, sprawling, dusty city of 6 million people with no real outstanding
attractions. On the scale of things Indian, it's a very hassle free
city compared to big, bad Bombay, Delhi and Calcutta. A day or two is
probably enough though before you head off on your big adventure.
Heading south
out of downtown Chennai, it takes about 2 hours of cycling through dense
traffic to clear the city.
Once out in the
country the traffic thins out dramatically and this pattern is repeated
throughout the whole ride; heavy traffic coming into and out of the
bigger cities, and quite thin traffic in the country areas.
Mahabalipuram
(Mamallapuram, or just good ol' Ma-bali-puram) is a straight 60 km run
south of Chennai, and allowing for the slow crawl out of Chennai, this
leg should take you about 4 hours all up.
Nestled beside
the Indian Ocean, Mahabalipuram is a funky tourist town servicing both
Indians and Westerners. If you require somewhere to stop and get your
"Indian legs", this is the place. Cheap guest houses and cafés
abound.
There is also a
nearby temple complex built into the rock bluffs overlooking the town
and a local stone carving community a few of kilometres out of town.
(see The
Lady Di Affair at left.)
Pondicherry
is 100 km south of Mahabalipuram along a flat sealed road with very
moderate traffic.
A few kilometres
before Pondi you'll pass the Sri Aurobindo Ashram where it's
possible to stay. You can't miss it - it's on your right and there's
Westerners in white robes wandering about. The ashram might be a good
overnight option as Pondi itself is nothing special and the famous French
restaurants are overrated. Thirty years of Indianisation has left the
escargot barely recognisable.
Crossing the Karveri
(Cauvery) River you will arrive at at Sirkazhi (100 km south
of Pondi).
South of the town,
take the turn off to Tharangambadi and the coast (30 km further
on). About 5 km before Tharangambadi town you will pass the very pleasant
"Garden Restaurant and Lodge", springing out of nowhere on
your right hand side. If you can't make it all the way down to Karaikal,
then you might consider an overnight here. At least stop for a tea and
soak up the silence.
This stretch of
road is nothing short of superb: quiet, green and very little traffic.
However, just as Mr Pumpy was beginning to think pleasant things, he
came across his first road accident.
Karaikal
(17 km south of the "Garden Restaurant and Lodge") further
down the coast has a couple of Internet Cafés, but not a lot
else of note. It's an OK stopover. You can visit the Tirunallar Temple
5 km west of town which is untouristed and welcoming.
10 km south of
Karaikal, the road turns inland at Nagapattinam to Thanjavur
(112 km from Karaikal). The condition varies from excellent to poor,
being dead flat but potholed in sections.
From Thanjavur
the road heads 60 km due west to Tirichuppalli (Trichi), and
apart from a few annoying potholed sections the road is first class,
if a little thin. The traffic picks up in intensity as one approaches
the Trichi suburbs.
Trichi is an interesting
town with a jolly great stone fort rising out of its centre. Well worth
the climb up through an carved tunnel network of caves. From the top
you can see across the mighty Karveri (Cauvery) River to a network
of enormous Hindu temple complexes within easy striking distance of
the bike.
Cutting further
inland, Dindigul is 100 km south west of Trichi along the main
arterial road. Strangely, this road doesn't appear any different than
the B roads one has traveled so far, and varies from poor to excellent,
with minimal traffic and a few slight inclines thrown in.
Heading down to
Madurai (70 km south of Dindigul) along a first class road with
very little traffic, you are now skirting the Varushanand Hills and
Southern Ghats, part of the rugged range of mountains that runs
north-south down the centre of southern India almost all the way to
it's southern most tip. The traffic picks up as one approaches Madurai.
Madurai
(pop. 1.3 mil.) is a bustling regional Indian city, full of historical
Hindu sites, modern day pilgrims and the attendant sadhus (holy men),
beggars and hangers on. Quite a mix, and worth a day or two's exploration.
160 km further
south, with the traffic and road conditions unchanged, is Tirunelveli
and another day's hop of 100 km will get you into Kanyakumari
at the southern most tip of India.
The approach into
Kanyakumari is quite scenic, with a good road, distant hills and very
little traffic to spoil the view. Of special note is the windmill farm,
very hi-tech indeed.
Congratulations!
You made it to the very southern tip of India! Kanyakumari (Cape
Comorin) is quite a site.
Get yourself a
room overlooking the sea and visit the Vivekenanda Memorial, along with
the rest of the Indian pilgrims. Groovy!
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